Etan Does LA is celebrating National Library Week by visiting LA’s historic libraries on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Felipe de Neve Branch library is an elegant architectural ode to the Spanish founder of Los Angeles, and a community staple in Westlake/MacArthur Park since 1929

Added to the National Register of Historic Places on May 19, 1987

There are a whole lot of monumental buildings within a half-mile radius of the Felipe de Neve Branch library in Macarthur Park. The gothic spires of the First Congregational Church tower over the intersection of 6th and Hoover, right across from the library. The next building west is the LA Superior Court building, which reflects the city back at itself with 19 stories of mirrored glass. The mammoth art deco Bullocks Wilshire building is just around the corner. 

Built in 1929, the Felipe de Neve branch holds its own by presenting monumental architecture on a more human scale. No doubt, this Mediterranean-style marvel is an impressive-looking building. Its symmetrical, bright red brick and stone facade expresses strength, solidity, and its placement at the top of a grassy hill enhances the fortress vibe. But there’s artistry and personality aplenty here, with elaborate flower-carvings in the stone, and decorative tilework above each of the 10 windows that flank the entrance. Inside, exposed wooden roofbeams and arched windows and hanging wrought-iron reinforce the Spanish connection; the high ceilings and plentiful windows allow for a ton of natural light to flood through. 

My guess is that architect Austin Whittlesey wanted to create a building that echoed the Spanish origins of its namesake Felipe de Neve, the Spanish governor of California from 1776 – 1782 who was instrumental in founding Los Angeles. De Neve obtained permission from Spain’s King Charles III to establish a new secular pueblo on the LA River (then known as Río de Porciúncula), oversaw the recruitment of LA’s first settlers (the 44 pobladores) and personally drew up a layout for the town. He was there with the pobladores on September 4, 1781 when LA was officially established. 

The Felipe de Neve branch library is historically significant as the first LA structure named after de Neve (there’s now a UCLA housing plaza called De Neve Plaza right on De Neve Drive in Westwood, and a bronze statue of him in LA Plaza Park – see Etan Does LA visit #50). A figure like De Neve deserved a building in a prime location. The Library Commission originally asked the Parks Commission if they could build their new library on the Wilshire Blvd. side of beautiful Lafayette Park, a block south of its current location. The Parks Commission was like “Sure! But if it costs any less than $100,000, it’s unworthy of the upper crust Westlake folk.” The Library Commission balked at the pricetag, and changed the site to the north side of the park, facing 6th Street. The final cost was around $40,000, with a $10,000 budget for books.

The Felipe de Neve Branch opened to the public on July 1, 1929, but the formal dedication was delayed until September 4, 1929 to coincide with the 148th anniversary of LA’s founding. Presidents of two historical societies spoke, and a Dana Bartlett painting over the fireplace was formally donated to the city. They had a string orchestra play, served refreshments and read stories to the kids. Some of the 400 or so guests at the dedication were dressed in Spanish attire. A grand ol’ time, by the sound of it!

One final historical tidbit. Within a couple years of opening, the Lovers of Shakespeare Club had taken to meeting in the library’s auditorium. The club created a Shakespeare Garden just behind the library at the top of Lafayette Park, including a large pond which ended up becoming pretty popular for gatherings…It looks kind of amazing from the historical photos. Like a chump, I didn’t make it to the backside of the library when I visited. I’ll have to rectify that on my next pilgrimage. 

Recommended Reading

+Felipe de Neve Branch NRHP nomination form

+Thematic submission to the NRHP for LA Public Library Branches (1913-1930)

+History of the Felipe de Neve Branch (PDF download – LA Public Library)

+The Settlement of Los Angeles (LA Almanac)