#45: Union Station (Downtown)
A beloved landmark for travelers, architecture aficionados and culture vultures since it opened in 1939
Added to the National Register of Historic Places on November 13, 1980
I took these photos & videos during the Great LA Walk, and I’m sharing them now to commemorate all the comings and goings that happen the day before Thanksgiving…and also as a “thank you” to Metro Los Angeles for taking such good care of Union Station, one of LA’s great historical sites for the past decade.
Commissioned in 1933 and completed in 1939, Union Station replaced two earlier stations, each serving one rail line, with a single station that consolidated the Southern Pacific, Union Pacific & Santa Fe Railroad.
+See vintage photos of the now-demolished stations that Union Station replaced (KCET)
Its early planning was mired in some very public controversy. A 1926 ballot measure asked LA voters if they preferred that the new station be built in Chinatown or on LA Plaza (see post #50), where the city was founded. The latter won by a slim margin, and were it not for the efforts of preservationist Christine Sterling and LA Times publisher Harry Chandler, Union Station might have actually replaced the Plaza. Instead, it was constructed right across the street, where the original Chinatown was located. Construction uncovered remains of a prehistoric Tongva/Kizh village called Yaanga – certainly not the first or last time that an indigenous site was covered over by developers.
The building itself is a marvel. You’ll recognize elements of classic east coast terminals and hotel lobbies in the cavernous waiting room and ticket hall; but the father-son team of John & Donald Parkinson blended mission revival, Moorish and art deco in a way that feels uniquely Californian. The chandeliers, beams, tiling, courtyards and archways are all straight out of the CA mission playbook, with an extra touch of fancy.
Though the growth of car and air travel put a dent in the passenger load since WWII, Union Station remains a crucial transport hub. And more recently, a cultural hub too. I’ve seen pop concerts and immersive opera here; celebrated Bach’s birthday; consumed craft beer at the brewery on premises (since re-branded as Homebound Brewhouse). And of course, I’ve waited for trains, subways and buses here. Being here feels like coming home.
PS: When AMPAS decided to host the Oscars here this year, Union Station got a quality restoration. It now looks snazzier than ever.
Recommended Reading
+Excellent history @ Great American Stations site (established by Amtrak)
+Music videos shot at Union Station: “Drops of Jupiter” by Train; “Last Train Home” by John Mayer